Originally published in the Missoulian.

At Kal’s Chicken Coop in Billings, I step into a space transformed—once a sleek Asian eatery, now a lively, farmhouse-inspired diner serving up crispy, hand-breaded chicken. Kalvin Tang, whose culinary roots trace back to his parents’ beloved Jade Palace, reinvented his restaurant after the pandemic, embracing a fast-casual concept centered around expertly brined, buttermilk-dipped, and perfectly fried chicken.